Osso Buco

My relationship with this dish began when I was only a small child. My parents had taken me out to eat at an Italian restaurant. When the waiter came to the table he announced osso buco as one of the night’s specials. I remember thinking the name sounded silly, and asking my dad what it was. “Veal braised in wine,” he said. Like a fool, I wasn’t impressed. I suppose that’s what prompted him to order it. When it came to table he showed me how the hole in the middle of the bone was filled with marrow. He spread some onto a piece of bread for me to taste, and my life was never the same again.

Osso buco, which literally translates to ‘bone with a hole,’ is a thick slice of veal shank, traditionally braised for many hours in white wine and aromatics. Slow cooking transforms the tough shank meat into fall-off-the-bone deliciousness. Oh, and did I mention the bone marrow? Sometimes, it’s hard to decide which to eat first.

These days, I like to make osso buco for guests because I can throw it into the oven two hours ahead of time and forget about it. It also never fails to impress. When I’m lucky, E.S. will make risotto to accompany the osso buco, but simpler starches like egg noodles or mashed potatoes are equally delicious. I finish the dish with a sprinkling of gremolata, a mixture of parsley and lemon zest, which helps to brighten the dish and cut through the sweetness of the veal.

I recommend using slices of veal shank that are at least 1½ inches thick for this recipe. If you only see thinner piece in the case, ask your butcher if he can cut you some thicker pieces (2 inches is ideal). As with my braised lamb shank recipe, I finish the osso buco in the oven, which allows the meat to re-brown and helps the shank to hold their form on the plate. Serve with crusty bread for soaking up the extra braising liquid and, of course, for the bone marrow.

Osso Buco

Ingredients

4 slices veal shank, 1½ to 2 inches thick

Kosher salt

Black pepper

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 medium carrot, chopped

1 medium onion, chopped

½ celery rib, chopped

6 garlic cloves, chopped

5 sprigs parsley

1 sprig thyme

2 bay leaves

10-12 black peppercorns

3 whole cloves

1 cup dry white wine

2 cups veal or chicken stock

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

1 tablespoon grated lemon zest from one lemon

Instructions

1. Preheat oven to 325F. Cut four pieces of kitchen twine, each about a foot long. Place a length of twine on a cutting board and lie a piece of veal shank on its side on top of twine, making sure to center the shank on the twine. Lift the ends of the twine up around the shank and tie as tightly as possible. Pat the shanks dry with paper towels and season generously with salt and pepper.

2. Heat oil in a Dutch oven large enough to hold the shanks in one layer over medium-high heat. When the oil begins to shimmer add the shanks and brown well on all sides, about 6 minutes. Brown the shanks in batches if necessary. Remove to a plate.

3. If the pot looks dry, add a little more oil. Reduce the heat to medium and add the carrot, onion, celery and garlic. Cook the vegetables, stirring frequently, until softened.

4. Place the parsley sprigs, thyme, bay leaves, peppercorns and cloves in a small coffee filter to make a bouquet garni (see pictures). Fold the filter over itself and tie shut with a piece of kitchen twine.

5. When the vegetables are cooked add a little bit of the wine to the pot and, using wooden spoon, scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pot. Arrange the shanks over the vegetables in a single layer, along with the bouquet garni. Add the wine and stock to the pot. The liquid should reach about halfway up the shanks. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil. Cover and place in the oven for 1 hour.

6. After one hour, flip the shanks over and add additional stock to the pot if needed to keep the level halfway up the shanks. Return to the oven and cook for 1 hour more.

7. Remove the pot from the oven and place on the stove top. Increase oven temperature to 400F. Remove shanks from liquid and place on a baking sheet. Once the oven has come up to temperature, place shanks in oven and allow to re-brown. Meanwhile, finish the sauce.

8. Strain the braising liquid into a medium saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Simmer the sauce until thick and velvety, about 10 minutes, skimming off any fat that rises to the surface. Once thickened, season to taste with Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper.

9. Combine the chopped parsley and lemon zest in a small bowl.

10. To serve, remove the string from each shank and ladle some of the reduced sauce over the top. Finish with a sprinkling of the parley and lemon zest mixture.